A Meandering Trip Along Spain’s Unsung Orange Blossom Coast
- Peregryn travel writers
- 11 minutes ago
- 16 min read
The eastern coast of Spain holds many treasures, but perhaps the most captivating—and certainly the most aptly named. is the Costa del Azahar (the Orange Blossom Coast). This stunning 120-kilometer (75 mile) stretch of Mediterranean shoreline runs through the province of Castellón, in the northern part of the Valencian Community. Its poetic name is a nod to the vast orange groves that fill the air with a sweet, defining fragrance every spring.
For too long, the Costa del Azahar has been an unsung gem. North of the city of Valencia, it is much less well known than Costa Blanca, on the Alicante coast of the Valencia Community. The area is divided into three parts. Valencia and Alicante are very well-known, and enjoying a tourist boom at the moment. But the third part, Castellón, home of the Costa del Azahar, is still relatively unknown.
Its allure lies precisely in its balance: it offers an unbeatable mix of authentic Spanish culture, ancient history, and largely unspoilt nature. A collection of seaside towns near Valencia, these are some of the prettiest parts of the country. Here, you will find dramatic mountain backdrops giving way to secluded, pristine beaches. From the dramatic silhouette of a Templar castle jutting into the sea, to Michelin-starred dining in a quiet coastal village, the region invites you to slow down, breathe the orange-scented air, and let the Mediterranean magic work its charm. When you travel to Spain, it is the ideal coastal getaway for those seeking history, adventure, and genuine Spanish serenity.
A week on the Costa del Azahar: the perfect itinerary
To truly appreciate the contrasting beauty of the Costa del Azahar, we recommend a journey starting in the north and meandering south over five to seven days, blending history, nature, and relaxation.
If arriving by train, you’ll probably disembark in the historic town of Benicarló, a charming Valencia coastal town located just north of Peñíscola. It is a place where history feels tangible, home to fascinating ancient Roman settlements that pre-date the surrounding medieval wonders. With a delightful mix of gastronomic marvels and beautiful seaside walks, making it an ideal spot for a mid-morning coffee or a stroll through its historic streets.
Take a little while to explore before heading down to Peñíscola, dedicating two full days to exploring the Knights Templar castle, relaxing on the vast Playa Norte, and enjoying the sumptuous seafood. The castle is a handsome fortress of honeyed stone, surrounded by the sea. You may recognize it from the screen, where it was used to represent the fictional city of Meereen in Game of Thrones.
Next, pick up a hire car and drive south towards Alcossebre. Spend a couple of days hiking or cycling through the Sierra d'Irta Natural Park , which connects the two towns, and unwinding on the tranquil coves.
As you continue south on your beach holiday near Valencia, your final stop should be Castellón de la Plana. On the way, stop briefly in the historic town of Oropesa del Mar, nestled in a small crescent bay, or perhaps call in at Benicàssim , famous for its music festival and popular cycling routes. Conclude your trip in Castellón with a final day exploring the green spaces, the port district of El Grao, and indulging in the city's sophisticated culinary scene.
The Jewel of the Coast: Peñíscola, The City in the Sea
Known to locals as ‘la ciudad en el mar’—the city in the sea—Peñíscola is one of the most picturesque Mediterranean seaside towns. The castle is perched on a small hilltop jutting out into the sea, with the cobbled streets and whitewashed walls of the old town spilling down the hillside in spiraling lanes from the top. Its blend of old-town enchantment, Mediterranean serenity, and rich history makes it a true Costa del Azahar marvel.
Where to stay in Peñíscola
Once a little tired and ragged around the edges, Peñíscola has been smartening up recently. One by one, its seafront hotels are becoming boutique spots, oozing understated style.
Fresh from a luxurious makeover, this beachfront hotel is all soft beige stone interiors and vast picture windows to make the most of beach and castle views. Make a splash in the zero-edge pool and a fabulous rooftop bar with views across to the castle—perfect for sundowners. It’s an ideal spot for lazy summer days, strolls across the road to the sandy beach, and stylish evenings.
A grown-up boutique retreat, this hotel is set right in the tangled streets by the castle with sea views. The decor evokes tranquility, with soft pastel hues and natural materials, while the setting is second to none. Rooms are simple with a hint of beach chic, and you can book one with Mediterranean views.
Its emblematic castle famously crowns the town. Built by the Knights Templar at the turn of the 13th century, Peñíscola Castle is perched upon a dramatic rocky outcrop overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. It was constructed at the behest of King James II of Aragón upon the ruins of an old Arabic citadel.
A century later, the castle gained religious significance when Benedict XIII, known as Pope Luna, took up residence in the early 15th century after being excommunicated and exiled by the Catholic Church. He was a key figure in the Western Schism, a major split in the Roman Catholic Church where two, and later three, rival popes simultaneously claimed leadership, one in Rome and another in Avignon (France), with a third emerging from the Council of Pisa. Today, visitors can tour the rooms where he lived and wrote, all while admiring sweeping views out to sea.
After visiting the castle, make your way down to the beaches, through the cobbled streets of the old city, charmingly dotted with boutique shops, restaurants, and resident cats sunning themselves on doorsteps. With its charming historical backdrop, Peñíscola is one of the best beach cities in Spain.
Playa de la Basseta
This stony beach lacks the crowds of some of Peñiscola’s more popular spots, lending a certain sense of tranquility. Head there at twilight for tantalizing views over Peñiscola Castle.
Playa Norte
Peñiscola’s most central and popular beach. Expect a 5 km stretch of sugared sand, great amenities, and a stunning Peñiscola Castle backdrop, together with a Blue Flag fluttering in the Mediterranean breeze.
Playa Sur
A curved sandy stretch, just south of the castle, Playa Sur offers calm waters, spectacular views, and modern amenities. The on-site water sports center offers sailing, diving, windsurfing, and canoeing activities.
Cala Badum
A remote rocky cove nestled away from the hiking trails of the Sierra Irta Natural Park. You’ll find it at the foot of the Badum cliffs, with views of the clifftop tower and over the sparkling sea.
Playa de las Viudas
A semi-urban beach next to Playa Sur, this fine sandy beach is the perfect place to relax and soak up the sun away from the hubbub of the town. You’ll find basic amenities like showers, yet with a real sense of remoteness that comes from a private paradise.
Where to eat in Peñíscola
Peñiscola offers some incredible cuisine typical to the region, but its gastronomic offering goes way beyond seafood and rice. Here are some of the best eateries in the town.
Formerly known as the town’s best tapas bar back in the late ’60s, Casa Jaime is now one of Peñiscola’s go-to seafood restaurants. The rice dishes are a must, particularly the arroz con bogavante (rice with lobster).
You can’t miss this seaside locale, whose nautical façade is dominated by a wrought iron ship’s bow. Set in the shadow of Castle Peñíscola, you’ll dine on the likes of traditional rice and fideuá dishes, as well as the house specialty, monkfish casserole.
A fabulous mix of Basque and Mediterranean cuisines, El Timonel offers old-school interiors and a friendly, laid-back atmosphere. Start with classic Basque pintxos, order a hearty seafood dish, then sweeten the deal with a plate of torrijas – a traditional dessert of fried bread soaked in cream.
This popular seafront eatery is perfect for a long, lazy lunch. Feast on a range of tapas—the best feature grilled meats, mussels, sardines, and octopus—order a bottle of crisp Verdejo, and soak up the Mediterranean ambience.
A very popular spot with locals, Galician-style octopus is the speciality although you’ll find all manner of seafood delights – from squid with tender garlic to razor clams. If you like seafood, there are few better places in Peñiscola.
A traditional-style taverna serving simple, humble food. Of course, the Iberian ham is a must, but don’t miss the patatas bravas, some of the best in town. The atmosphere is authentic and lively – sit back and people watch over tapas and a tipple or two.
On the way to Alcossebre
As you make your way from Peñíscola towards Alcossebre, you’ll find the Parque Natural de la Serra d'Irta, a great spot for hiking with its small ruined castle. It’s worth a day in itself, but if pushed for time, stop off on your way to Alcossebre.
Benicarló is a charming Valencia coastal town located just north of Peñíscola and worth a quick detour. It is a place where history feels tangible, home to fascinating ancient Roman settlements that predate the surrounding medieval wonders. With a delightful mix of gastronomic marvels and beautiful seaside walks, it makes it an ideal spot for a mid-morning coffee or a stroll through its historic streets.
Further inland, you will find Alcalà de Xivert, the closest town to Alcossebre and a must-visit for lovers of architecture. The town is renowned for its stunning examples of Valencian Baroque design, most notably the Hermitage of Saint Lucia and Saint Benedict. Overlooking the town is the Castillo de Xivert, an imposing ruin that provides a dramatic silhouette against the mountains and offers another layer of the region's complex historical narrative.
The Secluded Serenity of Alcossebre
An enchanting little seaside town near Valencia, Alcossebre is a sublime mix of mar y montaña—the sea and the mountains—where contrasting landscapes evoke tranquility and wonder. It is a sun-drenched spot just 75 miles north of Valencia.
Where to stay in Alcossebre
The perfect blend of mountain adventure and seaside retreat, Alcossebre has several charming residences, suitable for every traveler. These are our two favorites.
Set on the silken sands of Playa el Cargador, the Alcossebre Sea Experience offers beachside bliss with fully equipped apartments. Head to the Skybar and take a dip in the pool, then drift away on a hammock with cocktail in hand, as you gaze across the Mediterranean.
An oasis of calm that’s perfect for couples and families alike, these seaside apartments are flooded with natural light, while the spa, sauna, and gym give you plenty to do when you’re not out and about exploring the stunning surroundings.
What to do in Alcossebre
A classic, understated beach town, Alcossebre has a cultural calendar peppered with charming events and festivals throughout the year. And the surrounding natural beauty—including the lush expanse of Parque Natural de la Serra d'Irta and the spectacular coast of the Reserva Natural Marina d'Irta—makes it a true playground, where endless adventures await. Mountain biking, sailing, hiking, and diving the sea bed are all on offer here.
A protected area of 30,000 acres, the Sierra d'Irta Natural Park is one of the most beautiful natural areas in any of the beach towns near Valencia. A complex of pine- and palm-fringed trails winds gracefully past cliffs and coves, meandering along the spectacular coastline.
Off the coast of Alcossebre, halfway to the Balearic Islands, you’ll find the wonderful Columbretes Islands Natural Park, a small archipelago formed from volcanic activity. These stunning islands are rich in native flora and fauna. Nowadays, only one can be visited – Illa Grossa – although its protected status means you’ll need to arrange to visit the island through one of the few private companies who offer escorted tours.
You’ll also find an array of excellent hiking routes surrounding Alcossebre. They range from a 5-kilometer (3-mile) route ideal for families with children to a mammoth 19 kilometer (almost 12-mile) trail for experts, and take in various landscapes from pine forests to elm groves, and coastal trails to mountain passes.
If you prefer to see the sights from the saddle, take a cycling tour along the coast, with routes ranging from 16 kilometers (10 miles) to 24 kilometers (15 miles).
Alcossebre is also packed with nautical adventures. For tranquil water-based fun, hire a kayak and paddle along the serene waters. Speed out over the waves on a jet ski or take to the air on a flyboard tour. For deep-sea adventures, you’ll find numerous operators offering diving and snorkeling experiences.
But when you’ve had your fill of activities, you can simply spend a day on one of the beautiful beaches. Along Alcossebre’s blissful stretch of shoreline, there’s a delightful mix of beaches, from golden sandy stretches to secluded coves, making it a popular destination for those looking for a beach town near Valencia. Here are some of Alcossebre’s best beaches.
Playa Las Fuentes
Famed for its natural freshwater springs that flow from the seabed to the sand, this is one of Alcossebre’s most beloved beaches. It’s flanked by some of the best beach resorts near Valencia.
Playa Romana
Fringed by fragrant pines and rolling white dunes, this beach has an air of the Caribbean about it. Stretching over 1500 feet along the coast, it’s one of the largest beaches in the area.
Playa Carregador
One end is unrefined and wild, while the other is a blissful Blue Flag-winning beach. One of Alcossebre’s best beaches, Playa Carregador, is set in front of the excellent Alcossebre Sea Experience hotel.
Playa del Moro
Nestled between two rocky outcrops, Playa del Moro is the epitome of Mediterranean bliss—mountain views, powdered sand, and tranquil waters, with a Blue Flag to boot.
Playa Serradal
Tucked away to the south, near Castellón de la Plana, this is for those who want a walk on the wilder side. Head to the southern end of this pebbled beach for birdwatching and lush vegetation.
Beautiful coves
Near Playa del Moro, you’ll find Tres Playas, a set of three interlinked small coves and a popular hiking spot. To the north of the town, Cala Blanca is a tranquil bay with crystal clear waters, rock formations and surrounding vegetation. Further north, hidden in the secluded beauty of Parque Natural de la Serra d'Irta, Cala Mundina and Cala Ribamar both offer an oasis of calm.
Where to eat in Alcossebre
This is a region renowned for its fresh produce, which grows in abundance around the surrounding fertile lands. From artichokes, almonds, and olive oil to sensational seafood, Alcossebre’s produce is key to its delicious cuisine.
Perhaps its most beloved ingredient is the tomato that is unique to these lands. The "Tomata de Penjar" is a type of hanging tomato with a rich flavor and long shelf life. Typical dishes include Olla Gaspatxera, a hearty meat and vegetable stew, as well as octopus and seafood rice dishes.
The region of Castellon has created a gastronomic journey guide, entitled Ruta de Sabor – Route of Flavour. It highlights some of the best foodie experiences across the region, including in Alcossebre.
When visiting Alcossebre, don’t miss the following fantastic restaurants.
A Michelin-starred space just a stone’s throw away from Alcossebre’s seafront promenade. Expect masterfully plated, creative cuisine, with monkfish matured in Mos de Bresca honey and carob a particular standout.
An ode to Valencian cuisine nested in the lush outskirts of Alcossebre. Book a table near the window for spectacular views over the pine-covered hills and glittering sea, order paella with lobster and leave room for a dazzling dessert.
A meticulous blend of Mediterranean atmosphere and innovative cooking, with sumptuous sea views. Order the tasting menu and take a culinary voyage, then round off the experience with one of their famous cocktails.
A tranquil space with a twinkling ambience. Take a seat on the sea view terrace and order from a mix of fish, seafood, meats, pasta, and vegan dishes.
An elevated harborside dining spot, Restaurant L'illa delivers fresh seafood dishes and sumptuous barbecued meat feasts cooked with their firewood. Order the grilled lamb with port reduction, and wash it down with a natural wine.
On the way to Castellón
Continuing south from the quiet shores of Alcossebre, the route to the regional capital takes you through some of the most vibrant coastal spots in the province.
Oropesa del Mar is a historic beach town, nestled in the shelter of a small crescent bay. It offers a versatile mix of experiences, with beautiful sandy beaches and hidden small coves. The town manages to balance its old-fashioned charm with modern amenities, making it a perfect spot for a refreshing dip in the Mediterranean before the final leg of your journey.
Further down the coast lies Benicàssim, perhaps the most famous of the beach towns near Valencia due to its legendary international music festivals. However, beyond the main stages, Benicàssim reveals a serene side with long, golden beaches and a wealth of cycling and hiking hotspots. It is the ideal place to stop and explore the Vía Verde—a scenic coastal path built on a former railway line—offering spectacular views of the sea as you approach Castellón de la Plana. The path runs for about 5 kilometers (3 miles) between Oropesa and Benicàssim.
Or for a different view of the area, take the Villa Route. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, families from Castellón and Valencia built in the "Valencian Biarritz" in this beautiful bay, a group of villas of diverse and engaging architectural styles. You can explore almost 30 of these villas, taking either the “Celestial Court” route, along the quieter streets, or the “Inferno” route, taking you past villas that were infamous for their wild parties.
Charismatic Castellón: Urban Convenience Meets Coastal Calm
The capital of the Castellón region, Castellón de la Plana, is a small, picturesque city. While revellers flock to nearby Benicàssim, Castellón rewards those savvy travellers who seek it out. It offers fantastic cuisine, fascinating medieval history, and, of course, that sublime Mediterranean climate.
Where to stay in Castellón
There are a range of hotels in Castellón de la Plana to suit all tastes, from tranquil coastal getaways to modern boutiques close to the city’s vibrant center. Here’s a selection of some of the best.
Situated just a short walk from the city centre’s main attractions, the Intelier Rosa is a four-star hotel with all the amenities you’d need for a city break in Castellón. Simple retro interiors, spacious minimalist rooms, and excellent staff make this central hotel an excellent option.
A short stroll from Castellón’s central market, NH Mindoro offers accommodation in a great location for a great price. It was Castellón’s first-ever hotel and, thanks to a 2014 renovation, it’s among the best in a city with a dearth of good places to stay. Plump for spacious deluxe rooms, which come with a large balcony.
A newly opened hotel, RH Silene Hotel & Spa is right next to Plaja Pinar, one of Castellón’s best beaches. The design oozes classic Mediterranean elegance, while the spa and swimming pools are fantastic.
Located in Castellón’s popular maritime district, Grao, this recently renovated hotel is surrounded by buzzy cafes, excellent restaurants and some of the city’s best beaches.
Another beachside gem, Hotel Costa Azahar is just steps away from the city’s best beach, Platja del Pinar. It offers old-school charm with serenity in abundance. Enjoy the epic sea views, particularly at sunrise.
Castellón is a city with strong foundations. At its heart, 5 km (3 miles) from its coastline, you’ll find lots of green space. Central parks are plentiful, while the city is enveloped by huertas, fields of fresh produce, the cornerstone of Castellón’s culinary offerings.
It’s a city that’s simple to explore. Compact and well-connected, you can easily stroll the central streets, serene and spacious during the day and vibrant in the evenings. Castellón never feels crowded and is unspoiled by tourism, having retained a local feel that offers an intriguing insight into authentic life in this wonderful city. You’ll find all manner of lively bars, cafes, and restaurants serving up some of the city’s finest food, together with museums, cultural centers, and the Planetarium with its emblematic white dome.
If you’re looking for natural things to do in Castellon de la Plana, the city is also home to a number of verdant nature parks, each showcasing typical Mediterranean flora and fauna. At the top of La Magdalena hill, you’ll find Castell Vell and its surrounding parkland, dating back 1,000 years. Originally an Arabic castle, it has undergone several rebuilds over the years. Wandering around its ruins offers a fascinating glimpse into Mediterranean history.
Some 25 km (15 miles) outside the city, the Desert of Palms, a botanical enclave and former spiritual retreat for 17th-century Carmelites, is evidenced by the remains of old castles and monasteries. Covering an area of over 7,000 acres and abundant in wildlife and vegetation, it’s the perfect hiking spot in Castellón.
Another gorgeous natural space, El Molí de la Font, a freshwater spring, offers an intriguing glimpse into Castellón’s agricultural past. Meanwhile, on the Columbretes Islands, you’ll discover a series of islets and reefs that are home to dozens of species, including nesting seabird colonies and native lizards.
Take one of the roads or cycle routes that head east, traversing the fields out towards the coast, where you’ll find the charming fishing port of El Grao. Also known as El Grau in Valencian, Castellón’s gateway to the sea is the area’s traditional maritime and port district. It’s home to the gorgeous Parque del Pinar, a 370 km2 (150 square miles) pine forest that runs parallel to the beach. And there are beaches in abundance. Here are some of our favorites.
Pinar Beach
Possibly the best Castellón de la Plana beach, Pinar Beach has been awarded Blue Flag status for its exceptional services, which include clean changing facilities, showers, sun loungers, and water sports activities. Practicalities aside, it’s a stunner, with golden sands, azure water and swaying palms.
Gurugú Beach
another exceptional Blue-Flag beach that has recently been renovated. Pristine sands and plenty of watersports activities, kids’ play parks and chiringuitos (beach bars) make it a great option, plus it never gets too busy, even in summer.
Serradel Beach
Further up the coast is Serradel Beach, a slightly more remote option. A wilder, more natural coastal environment, it makes for the perfect setting for a sunrise or sunset stroll.
El Palmeral Beach
Located in the maritime district of El Grao, El Palmeral Beach is one of the region’s premier coastal escapes. Characterized by its lush, namesake palm groves and golden sands, it sits parallel to the expansive Parque del Pinar, offering a perfect blend of Mediterranean sun and natural shade
Where to eat in Castellón
Castellón’s cuisine celebrates its surroundings. Lush fertile fields producing rice and fresh seasonal vegetables, crystal clear waters supplying sensational seafood and expanses of green space, where native animals graze.
This environment forms the basis for a fantastic gastronomic offering. Here are some of the best Castellón de la Plana restaurants, from the city to the sea.
A unique fusion of traditional Mediterranean, Spanish, and Asian flavors, Le Bistrot Gastronomico is one of the best fine-dining restaurants in Castellón. Simple surroundings and friendly service set the scene, while the sensational flavors, delicate textures, and precise presentation seal the deal.
Upscale Italian cuisine served up in a central location, Alessandro Maino dazzles the palate with imaginative flavor combinations and catches the eye with playful presentation. Great service, fantastic wine, and pasta that’s simply sublime.
True to its name, this fine dining restaurant in Castellón’s Vall de Alba district is a veritable foodie’s paradise. Inspired by the roots of Castellón cooking, with modern inventive flair. The sardines, penjar tomatoes, and roasted garlic are sublime.
A humble bistro with a classic old-school taverna atmosphere, El Colmado is a local favorite that serves simple, affordable food that’s big on flavor and low on pretension. Great service, a central location,, and a fantastic selection of wines.
A superb family-owned restaurant in Castellón’s port, this is the perfect showcase for the city’s gastronomic offering. A wonderful atmosphere, friendly service and typical Mediterranean dishes cooked to perfection—a real gem.
A vintage seaside treat, this recently renovated marine-themed restaurant is a local favorite. While away the hours sampling this restaurant’s amazing paella over a long, lazy lunch while sipping wine and admiring the view.
With a focus on fresh fish and seafood, as well as rice and seasonal produce, this fantastic Castellón restaurant blends fresh, inventive dishes with attentive service for a sensational dining experience. The seafood paella is a favourite with locals.
Visit the Costa del Azahar
One of the most underrated stretches of coastline in Spain, the Costa del Azahar blends old-fashioned charm with modern quality. It offers exceptional cuisine, outstanding natural beauty, some of the best beach cities in Spain, and a wonderfully laid-back atmosphere.
From the history of Peñíscola to the urban sophistication of Castellón and the secluded nature of Alcossebre, this coast offers a hearty blend of experiences to satisfy every kind of traveler. Get there ahead of the crowd.
