Pristine Peñíscola: The ‘city in the sea’ with a host of smart new hotels
- Peregryn travel writers
- Dec 17, 2024
- 5 min read
Updated: Jan 27
Set on the blissful shores of the Costa del Azahar, Peñiscola’s blend of old-town enchantment, Mediterranean serenity and rich history makes it one of the best beach towns near Valencia.
Located in the region of Castellon, beside one of Spain’s most stunning medieval castles and fringed by golden sands and a sprawling natural park, Peñiscola blends alluring history and natural beauty.
A Knights Templar wonder
The town is crowned by its emblematic castle. Built by the Knights Templar at the turn of the 13th Century, Peñiscola Castle is perched upon a dramatic rocky outcrop overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.
It’s said that this imposing fortress was built upon the ruins of an old Arabic citadel. It was constructed by the Knights Templar at the behest of King James II of Aragón, some 70 years after his father had overseen the recapture of the town from Moorish occupation.
In 1307, the Knights Templar were banished from the town and Peñíscola returned to the rule of the crown.
A century, the castle became famous once again - this time as a place of religious importance, when Benedict XIII, known as Pope Luna, took up residence.
Excommunicated and exiled by the Catholic Church, he turned Peñíscola Castle into a papal palace and library. Today, you can visit the rooms where he lived and wrote, while admiring sweeping views out to sea.
You may also recognise this handsome castle of honeyed stone, surrounded by the sea, from Game of Thrones, representing the fictional city of Meereen.
Parque Natural Sierra de Irta
A sprawling natural oasis that covers 12,000 hectares, the Parque Natural Sierra de Irta is one of the area's most stunning landscapes. A vast undisturbed area made up of coves, cliffs, beaches and trails, fringed by palm and pine groves, it’s located just to the south of Peñiscola and the perfect place to hike or bike, with spectacular views of both the coast and mountains.
Flora and fauna are abundant. Close to the sea and further inland in the ravines, you’ll find carob, strawberry and juniper trees, as well as swathes of herb bushes such as rosemary and thyme.
Keep an eye out for circling seabirds, as well as squirrels, badgers and foxes on the numerous hiking routes that traverse Parque Natural Sierra de Irta, from family-friendly 5km trails to the epic all-day adventure of a 19km route.
Beach beauty
If you’re looking for a beach holiday near Valencia, Peñiscola is a great option. There are a wide variety of beaches, from golden sand splendour to secluded cove serenity. Here are some of the best.
Playa de la Basseta
This stony beach lacks the crowds of some of Peñiscola’s more popular spots, lending a certain sense of tranquillity. Head there at twilight for tantalising views over Peñiscola Castle.
Playa Norte
Peñiscola’s most central and popular beach. Expect a 5km stretch of sugared sand, great amenities and a stunning Peñiscola Castle backdrop, together with a Blue Flag fluttering in the Mediterranean breeze.
Playa Sur
A curved sandy stretch, just south of the castle, Playa Sur offers calm waters, spectacular views and modern amenities. The onsite watersports centre offers sailing, diving, windsurfing and canoeing activities.
Cala Badum
A remote rocky cove nestled away from the hiking trails of the Sierra Irta Natural Park. You’ll find it at the foot of the Badum cliffs, with views of the clifftop tower and over the sparkling sea.
Playa de las Viudas
A semi-urban beach next to Playa Sur, this fine sandy beach is the perfect place to relax and soak up the sun away from the hubbub of the town. You’ll find basic amenities like showers, yet with a real sense of remoteness that comes from a private paradise.
Where to stay
Once a little tired and ragged around the edges, Peñiscola has been smartening up in recent years. One by one, its seafront hotels are becoming boutique spots, oozing understated style.
Fresh from a luxurious makeover, this beachfront hotel is all soft beige stone interiors and vast picture windows to make the most of beach and castle views. Make a splash in the zero-edge pool and a fabulous rooftop bar with views across to the castle - perfect for sundowners. It’s an ideal spot for lazy summer days, strolls across the road to the sandy beach and stylish evenings.
A grown-up boutique retreat, this hotel is set right in the tangled streets by the castle with sea views. The decor evokes tranquillity, with soft pastel hues and natural materials, while the setting is second to none. Rooms are simple with a hint of beach chic, and you can book one with Mediterranean views.
Where to eat
Peñiscola offers some incredible cuisine typical to the region, but its gastronomic offering goes way beyond seafood and rice. Here are some of the best eateries in the town.
Formerly known as the town’s best tapas bar back in the late ’60s, Jaime House is now one of Peñiscola’s go-to seafood restaurants. The rice dishes are a must, particularly the arroz con bogavante (rice with lobster).
You can’t miss this seaside locale, whose nautical façade is dominated by a wrought iron ship’s bow. Set in the shadow of Castle Peñíscola, you’ll dine on the likes of traditional rice and fideuá dishes, as well the house specialty, monkfish casserole.
This popular seafront eatery is perfect for a long lazy lunch. Feast on a range of tapas – the best feature grilled meats, mussels, sardines and octopus, order a bottle of crisp Verdejo, and soak up the Mediterranean ambience.
A very popular spot with locals, Galician-style octopus is the speciality although you’ll find all manner of seafood delights – from squid with tender garlic to razor clams. If you like seafood, there are few better places in Peñiscola.
A traditional style taverna serving simple, humble food. Of course, the Iberian ham is a must, but don’t miss the patatas bravas, some of the best in town. The atmosphere is authentic and lively – sit back and people watch over tapas and a tipple or two.
What’s nearby?
Peñiscola is just one of numerous charming small seaside towns along the Costa del Azahar, or ‘orange blossom coast’ in English – the stretch of coastline north of Valencia.
Further north you’ll find Benicarló and Vinarós, while to the south of Peñiscola on the other side of the sprawling Parque Natural Sierra, is Alcossebre.
Each offers an intriguing mix of gastronomic marvels, blissful beaches and natural wonders. From ancient Roman settlements in Benicarló and Michelin-star restaurants in Alcossebre to beautiful seaside walks in Vinarós, these nearby towns have a little of everything.
Visit Peñíscola
Known to locals as ‘la ciudad en el mar’, the city in the sea, Peñiscola is a picturesque Mediterranean seaside town, with cinematic landscapes, historical monuments and sumptuous seafood – the ideal coastal getaway and one of the best beach towns near Valencia.
