A Guide to Almería: The Understated Andalusian City on the Brink of a Revival
- Peregryn travel writers
- 2 days ago
- 6 min read
Tucked away in the far southeast corner of Spain, Almería is a city that has spent decades quietly guarding its secrets. While its more famous Andalusian neighbors, like Seville, Granada, and Málaga have long drawn the global spotlight of travel to Spain, Almería remains a rugged, sun-drenched outlier.
But look closer, and you’ll see that the city offers a different kind of Spanish soul. Surrounded by an arid, almost lunar landscape that famously served as the backdrop for iconic spaghetti Westerns, the city is a treasure trove of Moorish fortresses and Gothic cathedrals. Today, Almería is waking up, undergoing a vibrant renaissance that makes it the perfect destination for the traveler looking to see more and travel slower. And to its east lies the wild luxury of Cabo de Gata, an unspoilt natural park with gorgeous beaches.
What’s New in Almeria?
For years, Almería was considered the end of the line, a coastal gem, maybe, but completely separated from the rest of Spain by its unique geography. However, all that is about to change. The city is currently buzzing with the anticipation of the AVE high-speed rail connection to Madrid, expected in 2027. This infrastructure leap will slash travel times from over six hours to less than three, placing this forgotten city firmly on the modern map.
But the revival isn't just about transport; it’s also a cultural explosion. In 2024, the Museum of Spanish Contemporary Realism (MUREC) opened its doors in a stunningly restored 16th-century hospital, bringing world-class art to the city center. This was preceded by the 2023 opening of the Yacimiento Arqueológico Barrio Andalusí. These ruins, nestled at the foot of the Alcazaba, were once home to a dilapidated hotel called the Mesón Gitano. When archaeologists began to dig, they uncovered an entire historic Islamic neighborhood frozen in time. Today, visitors can walk through these ancient streets and use high-tech VR goggles to watch the 12th-century city rebuild itself before their eyes.
This smartening up extends to the city’s very bones. The Paseo de Almería, the city’s elegant, tree-lined shopping avenue, is undergoing a massive 14-million-euro pedestrianization project, to reconnect the historic heart of the city with its Mediterranean port. The plans show a dream of creating a sophisticated, walkable urban environment that rivals the most beautiful capital cities in Europe, making the city a new highlight on your trip to Spain.
Why We Love Almería
Slow down and discover what to do in Almeria. Exactly 60 years ago this year, John Lennon escaped here during the height of Beatlemania to film How I Won the War. "Strawberry Fields Forever," allegedly inspired by the solitude and light of the city, was written here while he was staying at the historic Cortijo Romero villa. The villa itself has now become the city's must-visit Cinema Museum, which features a room dedicated to his stay.
But that’s just one of the many things to do in Almeria City. Spend a few days here and pay a visit to the following places as well:
The Alcazaba
Dominating the skyline, this is Europe's second-largest Moorish fortress. Walking through its tiered gardens and ancient battlements feels like stepping into a different century, offering breathtaking views of the Mediterranean and the colorful cave houses of the Pescadería neighborhood below.
Cable Inglés
This Eiffel-Tower-style iron pier is a masterpiece of industrial architecture. Recently restored as a high-altitude walkway, it stretches into the sea and provides some of the city’s best sunset views.
Puerta de Almería
A fascinating archaeological site where you can discover Almería’s Roman roots, including ancient salting tanks used for the Garum (fish sauce) industry that once fueled the Roman Empire.
Civil War Shelters (Refugios)
For a poignant look at modern history, tour the longest and best-preserved underground air-raid shelters in Europe. This 4-kilometer network of tunnels was designed to protect the entire population during the Spanish Civil War and remains a marvel of engineering.
Almería Cathedral
Built in the 16th century, this rare fortress-cathedral was designed with flat roofs and battlements to defend against Berber pirate attacks. It is a gorgeous example of Gothic and Renaissance architecture with an unusual defensive edge.
The Perfect Base for Adventure
Almería is the gateway to some of Europe’s most dramatic and ecologically diverse landscapes, making it a dream for those who want to combine urban culture and history with raw, natural beauty. To the east lies the Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park, Andalusia’s largest protected coastal area. This is a genuinely wild place, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve where volcanic cliffs drop into turquoise waters and unspoilt beaches like Playa de los Genoveses offer a level of seclusion that is increasingly hard to find in the Mediterranean. It is a world of salt flats, hidden coves, and pink flamingos, perfect for a day of slow exploration or a private boat charter.
In stark contrast, just a short drive north takes you into the heart of the Tabernas Desert, the only true desert on the European continent. This arid moonscape isn't just a geological wonder; it’s a piece of cinematic history. The unique light and rugged canyons served as the backdrop for the legendary Spaghetti Westerns of the 1960s. You can still wander through original film sets like Fort Bravo or Mini Hollywood, where Clint Eastwood once squinted into the sunset.
For the modern adventurer, the desert offers 4x4 tours that trace the steps of Lawrence of Arabia and Indiana Jones, while the nearby Sierra Alhamilla offers thermal springs and hiking trails with views that stretch all the way to the North African coast on a clear day.
Restaurants in Almeria: A Foodie Revolution
Almería is arguably the last bastion of the free tapa. In this city, when you order a glass of crisp Alborán wine or a cold beer, you are almost always served a substantial, complimentary plate—think creamy ensaladilla rusa, fresh grilled octopus, or spicy patatas bravas. The city is currently in the midst of a culinary golden age, where traditional taverns sit side-by-side with high-concept modern eateries.
Old-School & Trendy Tapas
Established in 1870, this is the city’s oldest tavern. Casa Puga is a rite of passage. Expect high-energy service, a marble bar stained with history, and a legendary marinade of dry Sherry paired with their famous grilled leeks or fresh prawns.
This stylish, high-ceilinged spot on the iconic Calle Jovellanos is always buzzing. It’s the place to see and be seen while enjoying a modern twist on traditional migas or perfectly seasoned octopus served on rustic wood.
A sanctuary for wine aficionados, this intimate bar pairs an extensive, curated cellar with inventive small plates. It’s where the locals go for a sophisticated evening of tapas away from the main tourist drag.
Known for its vibrant atmosphere and creative plating, De Tal Palo elevates the simple tapa to an art form. Their fusion of traditional Almeriense ingredients with modern culinary techniques makes it a consistent favorite for foodies.
Tucked into the shadow of the Alcazaba, this Moorish-style tea house offers more than just mint tea. Their North African-inspired tapas and couscous dishes provide a delicious, aromatic reminder of the city's profound Islamic heritage.
Fine Dining
This is Almería’s "it" spot for high-level Mediterranean fusion. Chef Tony García uses the region’s famous garden produce to create sophisticated, seasonal dishes in a space that feels like a modern art gallery.
Chef Dani Muñoz delivers an intimate, creative experience focused on "market cuisine." Every dish tells a story of the local landscape, with inventive textures and flavors that have made it a cornerstone of the city’s revival.
A masterclass in culinary travel, Ginés Peregrín fuses his local roots with Japanese and Peruvian influences. The result is a daring, high-spec menu featuring exquisite ceviches and tiraditos that bring a global edge to the Almeriense table.
Located near the historic Plaza Vieja, this Michelin-recommended gem is the pinnacle of contemporary dining. The focus here is on premium cuts of meat and elevated seafood, served in a sleek, sophisticated environment perfect for a celebratory dinner.
For the discerning traveler, Almería’s boutique stays reflect its historic charm and modern ambitions.
Located in the historic Plaza Vieja, this 19th-century palace has been transformed into a sanctuary of wellness. Beyond the elegant, minimalist rooms, the real draw is the subterranean Arab baths. Here, guests can soak in candlelit thermal pools—a perfect, silent nod to the city’s Moorish past after a day of exploring.
This 4-star boutique gem is built into a stunning neo-classical manor house directly facing the Cathedral’s fortress-like walls. It offers a sophisticated, central base with high-spec amenities and a rooftop terrace that provides some of the most spectacular, unobstructed views of the city’s historic skyline and the Mediterranean beyond.
An intimate and artistic stay, this boutique hotel feels like a private residence designed for the discerning traveler. With only a handful of uniquely decorated rooms, it offers a peaceful, high-end sanctuary. It is perfectly positioned for those who want to immerse themselves in the narrow, winding streets of the old Moorish quarter.
Pack Your Bags
Travel to Spain, Almería, for over 300 days of sunshine a year. It is a destination that never goes out of season, a city that rewards the curious, the travelers who want to see the authentic Spain before the rest of the world catches on. Whether you’re exploring the heights of the Alcazaba, dining on world-class tapas, or using the city as a jumping-off point for the wild Cabo de Gata, now is the time to visit. Almería isn't just a place to see; it's a place to feel.
