Unveiling the soul of the Alpujarras: Spain adventure travel
- Peregryn travel writers
- May 13
- 10 min read
Updated: Jun 2
On the southern foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, the Alpujarras beckon with their timeless allure. These picturesque villages, with their whitewashed houses cascading down the hillsides, offer a glimpse into Andalucia's rich history and a welcome escape from the modern world.
Here, life moves at a slower pace, allowing visitors to savor the simple pleasures of rural life. Wander through narrow streets, hike in the hills, breathe in the scent of almond, chestnut and orange blossoms, and immerse yourself in the breathtaking natural beauty that surrounds you. The Alpujarras promise an unforgettable journey into the heart of Andalusian history, and some of the very best walking trips in Spain.
Andalucia trips: A living history
The whole of Andalucia is a daily reminder of cultural exchange and historical influences into the present day. Nowhere is this more evident than in the Alpujarras. Their history begins with the Iberian Celts around 4000 BC. The Phoenicians and Romans were drawn by the fertile land and plentiful water, introducing the "acequias" irrigation system still used today. In the 8th Century, the Moors conquered the region, establishing fortified towns and villages. They revolutionized agriculture with new techniques and crops like almonds, figs, and grapes, and built irrigation canals and terraces, shaping the Alpujarras into a prosperous agricultural center.
In the late 15th Century, the Catholic kings of Spain conquered Granada, the last major stronghold of the Moors in Spain, many of whom fled to the Alpujarras. The area was not only a refuge but also served as the final bastion for Sultan Boabdil, the last Nasrid ruler of an Iberian emirate, after he relinquished Granada. In 1568, the Moors staged a defiant rebellion against Christian rule, following an edict from King Felipe II that enforced Christianity on Moorish children. The Alpujarrans fought bravely, assisted by the Ottoman Empire and repelled a number of assaults. However, the revolt was eventually brutally quelled in 1571, leading to the forced conversion and relocation of the defeated Moors.
Subsequently, Christian soldiers from Galicia were granted land in the region as thanks for their service and settled in the villages. These Galician descendants have preserved the Moorish legacy of crafting rugs and blankets to this day. The distinctive Alpujarran colors and artistry is evident in the vibrant crafts sold throughout the villages.
Muslim influence
The Alpujarras proudly preserve their rich Islamic heritage. The villages' unique architecture, vibrant jarapas (hand-woven fabric made from the region’s sheep’s wool and recycled garments) and local crafts reflect a fascinating blend of Berber and Moorish influences.
Culture and craftsmanship
The Alpujarras villages have a unique blend of Berber-influenced architecture, characterized by their distinctive whitewashed houses with flat roofs, and narrow, winding streets through the mountainous terrain, making for some of the best Spain trekking tours. The region is renowned for its colorful jarapas which hold significant cultural value. Rugs, blankets, scarves and other garments are all formed from this colorful cloth.
Other heritage crafts include pottery and leatherwork. Many workshops and studios are open to visitors, who can see the villagers’ traditional way of life, deeply connected to the land and rich in local customs.
Tangible remnants
Moorish influence is woven into the very fabric of the landscape and culture of the Alpujarras. The ingenious agricultural systems, with their terraced fields and intricate acequia irrigation channels, are a testament to Moorish engineering prowess. The architectural layout of the older village sections, with their narrow, winding streets and whitewashed houses, echoes the Moorish aesthetic.
Furthermore, place names with Arabic roots, such as Lanjarón and Alhama de Almería, and subtle cultural practices and linguistic remnants whisper tales of the Moorish past. The spirit of resistance, embodied in the Morisco rebellions, adds another layer to this rich tapestry, highlighting the Alpujarras' enduring connection to its Moorish heritage.
Gastronomy of the Alpujarras
The Alpujarras' fertile land and abundant water supply yield a bounty of fresh produce, including almonds, olives, grapes, and chestnuts, which form the backbone of the local cuisine. Many local artisans make unusual jam and jelly, including a traditional green tomato jam and onion marmalade.
Moorish influence is especially evident in dishes that incorporate dried fruits, nuts, and spices like cumin and saffron, showcasing a rich culinary heritage. Honey, a key ingredient in Arabic desserts, adds a touch of sweetness to local pastries and sweets, further demonstrating the enduring legacy of Moorish gastronomy in the region.
A muse to many
The Alpujarras' magic has captivated many creative people, including renowned authors, musicians and artists who found inspiration amid its serene beauty. Gerald Brenan, a British writer, famously penned "South from Granada" in the village of Yegen, drawing the attention of the Bloomsbury Group, including literary icon Virginia Woolf.
But it’s not only Brits who find the Alpujarras alluring. Within Spain itself, the region has attracted poet and playwright Federico García Lorca, who found inspiration in the region's landscapes and vibrant culture. Additionally, Francisco Villaespesa, another prominent Spanish writer, established his base in the charming town of Laujar.
The region's influence isn't limited to just these figures; Chris Stewart, the former Genesis drummer turned author, chronicled his experiences in "Driving Over Lemons" and other books, further popularizing the Alpujarras among English-speaking readers. Numerous other books and works of art have been inspired by this enchanting region, solidifying its status as a haven for creative souls seeking solace and inspiration.
The Western Alpujarras
The best-known part of the Alpujarras is in the West. These villages are well-traveled and easy to get around but retain all their authentic charm.
Órgiva
Órgiva is home to one of Europe’s oldest hippie communes. Hippies arrived from Ibiza in the late 1970s and the community has thrived since. The ‘Beneficio’ commune is a melting pot of cultures and rituals from all over the world; two other alternative communities have since opened in the region as well.
Lanjarón
The ‘village of eternal youth’, is one of Spain’s oldest towns. Its water, sourced from the highest mountains in the peninsula, is said to have healing properties and is the source of the town’s spa. The Lanjarón’s historic district is renowned for its natural splendor and whitewashed houses that feature striking blue doors and green windows.
Pampaneira
A historic and artistic town with well-preserved Berber architecture. The Nasrid occupation influenced the region, and the town features square layouts, courtyards, and small surveillance towers. The steep, narrow streets offer shade from the sun.
Trevélez
The village is famous for its exquisite jamón, a delicacy prized for its lower salt content due to the local climate’s influence on the curing process. The town is also a great place to relax and enjoy the mountain scenery.
Capileira
A Cultural Heritage Site, Capileira is perched high on a ravine overlooking the Poqueira River valley. The town has stunning lookout points with views of Cerro Mulhacen and Picacho de Veleta. Its flat-roofed architecture is designed to prevent erosion from rain.
The Eastern Alpujarras
To truly experience a step back in time, escape to the eastern Alpujarras, where spectacular landscapes of almond trees, vineyards, and terraces complement the charm of hillside villages with winding streets. This region is perfect for exploration on foot, with routes between villages making it one of the best destinations for walking trips in Spain.
Yegen
Step back in time in Yegen, where British Hispanist Gerald Brenan found inspiration. Wander through narrow streets lined with unique architecture, perfectly adapted to the landscape and climate, and immerse yourself in the village's rich Moorish past.
Mairena
Experience the tranquility of Mairena, a traditional Alpujarran village where time seems to stand still. During harvest season, witness the timeless tradition of mules outnumbering cars. Hike to the Peñón de Alfaguara for breathtaking views that will stay with you long after you leave.
Ugijar
Discover Ugijar, a town steeped in history. Once a prosperous agricultural center, Ugijar boasts majestic red stone cliffs and a charming location in the Nechite River Valley. Explore the Rambla Seca to find one of the area's few remaining carob trees and shop for authentic Alpujarra fabrics.
Laujar de Andarax
Considered one of the most beautiful towns in the Alpujarra of Almería, Laujar de Andarax is steeped in history. Visit the remains of the Alcazaba, where Boabdil, the last sultan of Granada, and his wife Morayma once resided. Stroll through the town's enchanting streets and find the perfect "jarapa" to remember your trip.
What to do in the Alpujarras
Trekking in the Alpujarras
The Alpujarras region is a paradise for trekkers, offering a wide range of routes for all levels, from gentle walks between villages to challenging hikes in the Sierra Nevada. The well-maintained trails wind through stunning landscapes, showcasing the region's natural beauty and cultural heritage. Walking trips in Spain don't get much better than this.
Routes: Many routes connect villages, allowing you to explore the region on foot. These routes often follow ancient paths used by locals for centuries, offering a unique glimpse into the area's history. Famous Easy Trekkings in the Alpujarras:
The Water Route (Acequia Alta de Bubión): This relatively flat and well-maintained path follows the ancient irrigation channel (acequia) above the village of Bubión. It offers stunning views of the Poqueira Gorge and is perfect for a leisurely stroll.
Pampaneira to Bubión: A gentle downhill walk connecting two of the most picturesque villages in the Western Alpujarras. The path offers lovely views and passes through cultivated terraces.
Capileira to the Mirador del Puerto: A short but rewarding walk from the highest of the three Poqueira villages to a viewpoint offering panoramic vistas of the surrounding mountains.
Lanjarón Water Trails: Explore the network of easy walking trails around Lanjarón, often following the various springs and waterways that the town is famous for. These paths are generally well-signposted and offer pleasant scenery.
Circular Walk around Yegen: A relatively easy loop around the historic village of Yegen, allowing you to soak in the atmosphere that inspired Gerald Brenan. The route offers views of the surrounding countryside and the village's unique architecture.
Savoring Local Flavors on Hillside Wanderings in Alpujarras: Typical Regional Dishes
The Alpujarras region invites you to slow down and embrace the local culture. Here, you can savor hearty, authentic cuisine, hike scenic trails connecting charming villages, and truly experience the unhurried pace of life in these picturesque mountains. Try not to explore this region as a number of sights to be ticked off a list; you’ll get the most out of it if you immerse yourself in the lifestyle, taking it easy and enjoying the ride. Quite literally, if you choose to explore on horseback!
As you wander the hillsides, stop off for local dishes or delicacies, appreciating the hearty seasonal fare. These are some typical meals of the region:
Plato Alpujarreño
A wholesome and satisfying simple dish, the Plato Alpujarreño showcases the best of local produce. Crispy fried eggs, flavorful cured ham or spicy chorizo, all served on a bed of potatoes a lo pobre (poor man's potatoes). This dish is a true reflection of the region's rich culinary heritage and a must-try for any visitor. For a traditional and affordable experience, Bar La Plaza in Bubión, is recommended for its local fare.
Trout (trucha)
Caught fresh from the region's pristine mountain streams, the trout dishes in the Alpujarras are a testament to simple, delicious cuisine. Grilled or pan-fried to perfection, the trout's delicate flavor shines through, offering a light and refreshing meal that captures the essence of the Alpujarras' natural beauty.
Try it at: Restaurants along river valleys, like those near Trevélez like Meson Joaquin or Inquire locally for the best fresh trout.
Rabbit (conejo)
A staple of the Alpujarran diet, rabbit is prepared in a variety of ways that highlight the region's culinary traditions. Whether cooked with fragrant garlic, toasted almonds, or a splash of local wine, the rabbit dishes are a flavorful and authentic representation of the local cuisine. Try it at: Las Chimeneas in the town Mairena, often featured in their more rustic, traditional menu.
Local cheeses
Local Cheeses: The Alpujarras is renowned for its handcrafted goat and sheep cheeses. Explore the diverse flavors, from mild to sharp, available at local markets throughout the region. For a special treat, seek out goat's cheese from Quesos Venta del Chaleco in Lanjaron, often found at regional markets and specialty shops. Some restaurants also offer local cheese selections as appetizers.
Almond-based desserts
Indulge in the sweet legacy of the Moorish influence with the Alpujarras' traditional almond-based desserts. These delectable treats, made with locally sourced almonds, offer a delightful combination of textures and flavors, showcasing the region's rich culinary heritage and the enduring influence of its past. For renowned almond pastries, consider visiting Panadería Gerardo Orgiva, a long-established bakery.
Where to stay
The Alpujarras area is filled with charming guesthouses and boutique hotels. Many are British-owned, by people who have lived in the area for years or decades, making communication a breeze. However, Spanish-owned locations are also extremely charming, and given the legendary hospitality of the region, you won’t lack comfort and luxury at any of them. Here are some of ElJourney European Travel Magazine’s favorites.
This picturesque hotel, converted from village houses, has been welcoming guests since 1998. Nine lovely rooms offer stunning hilltop views. The hotel provides comfortable accommodations, featuring antiques, books, cozy nooks, and a delightful restaurant serving fresh, seasonal cuisine.
Casa Ana, a 400-year-old house in the Alpujarran village of Ferreirola, has been transformed from a family home into a stylish guest house. It features south-facing terraces, a garden, and spectacular river gorge views. The hotel holds creative writing retreats and offers a range of guided walking tours for hikers.
El Paraje del Chef invites you to escape your daily routine and feel at home. Enjoy a peaceful walk, delicious food, stunning sunsets, and the tranquility of Granada's Alpujarra region. Spend a few days disconnecting and savoring the simple pleasures of life.
La Almunia del Valle, a charming eco-boutique hotel nestled in the Sierra Nevada mountains, offers a unique blend of authenticity and harmony. This sustainable oasis provides a cosmopolitan yet traditional experience, making it a perfect choice for travelers exploring Andalucia's natural beauty.
Located in southeast Granada's province, on the Calahorra plateau, is the Hospedería del Zenete. This four-star hotel, originally a 15th-century marquis's residence, offers traditional luxury accommodations amid the Sierra Nevada mountains.
The Alpujarras offer a truly distinctive travel experience, where the threads of history, vibrant culture, and captivating natural beauty are intricately woven together. From the lingering Moorish spirit in its architecture and flavors to the breathtaking vistas and welcoming villages, this region unveils a timeless way of life. Whether you arrive seeking adventure on its trails, a journey through its past, or simply the restorative embrace of its tranquil landscapes, the Alpujarras stands as an unparalleled destination for a slow and soulful holiday, beckoning you to discover its unique charm.
