Epic history, long sandy beaches and incredible gastronomy: this is San Sebastian
- Peregryn travel writers
- May 18
- 6 min read
One look at the sheer majesty of San Sebastian, from the extraordinary Belle Époque buildings, elegant palaces and lush landscaped gardens, and the regal influences are clear. There’s no doubting the influence of Spanish royals, who made the Basque city their summer residence in the late 19th Century, imbuing the city with an extraordinary sense of grace and splendor.
It’s a characteristic that remains to this day. Wandering around this bijou coastal city, the stunning architecture certainly makes its mark. But perhaps the main reason for traveling to San Sebastian is its culinary scene. With one of the highest number of Michelin-starred restaurants per capita in the world, it’s a true foodie paradise.
While it’s been influenced by royals and gastronomic geniuses alike, San Sebastian still retains a rich Basque culture that underpins everything. This, along with the wonderful climate, stunning sandy beaches and fascinating history, makes it the perfect destination for a short break.
Why we love it
Set on La Concha Bay on the Basque Country’s coast, San Sebastian is the gateway to the Basque coast and verdant countryside, surrounded by glorious silken beaches to the north and lush rolling mountainscapes of Urgull and Igeldo to the south.
With multiple restaurants recognized by both the Michelin Guide, and Restaurant Magazine’s 50 Best Restaurants list—and as the birthplace of the famous Spanish ‘pinxto’—the city’s food scene is at once historic and innovative, and its place as a long-time favorite vacation destination for the Spanish royal family gives it a regal allure.
Today, you can stroll down the stylish promenade, savoring the stunning architecture, the glittering sea, great food and the feeling of the summer breeze that rolls across the bay on summer nights.
During the height of summer, during July and August, expect high-season crowds and milder temperatures than most of Spain, perfect for strolling the city and hiking the outskirts. Shoulder seasons in June and September are still pleasantly warm yet with fewer visitors, giving the city a more peaceful vibe.
Who vacationed here?
Towards the end of the 19th Century, Spanish Queen María Cristina, charmed by its beaches and climate, chose San Sebastian as her summer escape destination.
Over the years, the Basque city became a favorite with royals and celebrities alike, with many spectacular residences springing up in the city to meet the needs of the queen and her court, as well as stars from Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor to Matt Damon and Brad Pitt.
This brings a unique quality to the city’s architecture. Architects focused on the indelible French style of the Belle Époque, infusing the city with an elegance and elan that define it to this day. From the stunning San Sebastian City Hall to the iconic Miramar Palace, you’ll find incredible buildings studded around the city that will leave your jaw on the floor.
Things to do and places to see in San Sebastian
A regal beach town, historic city, culinary capital and cultural hotspot rolled into one, San Sebastian offers a truly diverse range of experiences. Here’s our pick of the things to do and places to see in the Basque Country’s crowning jewel.
The beaches
One of the best beaches in San Sebastian, La Concha has even been named the best beach in Spain and Europe, bringing picture-postcard beauty in an unbeatable location. Another great beach, Zurriola is the ultimate surf location, while Ondarreta is popular with locals, with a relaxed vibe and a gorgeous backdrop.
Accessible by a short trip, Santa Clara island is also well worth a visit, with its ample watersports opportunities and abundance of local wildlife.
Old Town
The beating heart of San Sebastian is its Old Town. Here, you’ll find the vibrant Plaza de la Constitución, the stunning Basilica of St Mary, and a plethora of pintxo bars. These eateries specialize in the delicious bite-size Basque snack, popularized in the 1930s during the heyday of royal summer residences.
Towering above the lush landscape at the end of La Concha Bay, Mount Igueldo is one of the city’s defining features, separating the city from the sea. Take the funicular to the summit, where you’ll find a delightful vintage amusement park and breathtaking views of the city.
La peine del viento is a set of three sculptures set among a broad iron platform where the city ends and the sea begins. It’s a place where the wind whips the sea into a frenzy, and art meets nature for a thrilling, invigorating experience.
A renovated tobacco factory, San Sebastian’s magnificent Tabakalera Art Museum is an open art space that showcases the best of contemporary culture, from local and international artists. The center offers free guided tours of exhibitions and of the building.
Where to stay in San Sebastian
With its variety of stunning beaches, together with its majestic architecture and royal influence, it comes as no surprise that San Sebastian has a multitude of amazing accommodation options. Here are some of the best places to stay.
Built for Queen María Cristina in 1912 – she was the first guest through the door – this opulent, palatial hotel boasts all the grandeur you would expect. Stately chandeliers, marble floors and gold-plated tables all add to the luxuriousness of it all.
A glitzy hotel with an artful marine-based design and excellent first-rate facilities, Lasala Plaza is perfectly placed on La Concha Bay. Wonderful sea views and a rooftop pool add to the glamour.
An eco-friendly option on the outskirts of San Sebastian, this family-run boutique hotel offers a spectacular rooftop pool and vegetarian fine-dining, all in the most comfortable surroundings.
The famed fine dining restaurant and its accompanying hotel is perfect for San Sebastian, with this newly-opened spot already making waves. French palatial elegance meets tasteful Japanese simplicity for interiors that imbue serenity. The food, of course, is sensational.
San Sebastian’s hottest new urban boutique hotel fuses dark oak-toned minimalism with a touch of rural traditionalism. The suites are large and spacious, with a homely apartment feel, while the location is ideal for retail bliss.
Perfect pintxos
A trip to San Sebastian wouldn’t be complete without sampling the famous bite-sized Basque snack. Famous throughout the whole of Spain, pintxos originated in San Sebastian.
In fact, local bar La Espiga came up with the original idea of serving small, perfectly paired morsels, secured together with a skewer (pintxar means to pierce).
It still serves up lovingly prepared pintxos to this day, as do many of San Sebastian’s best bars. Here are some of our favorites.
Catalan run but with an authentic Basque feel, Borda Berri is buzzing most evenings. If you manage to nab a spot, don’t miss the bomba rice pintxos with baby squid and the out-of-this-world veal cheek.
A narrow bar that gets very crowded at peak hours, but it’s well worth the effort. They serve hot freshly prepared pintxos, such as tender suckling pig, veal cheeks, cod and clam, and the best scallops you’ve ever tasted.
An Old Town favorite for over 50 years, Gandarias served up sumptuous steak and seafood pintxos at bargain prices. Try the solomillo and shrimp pintxos, or the mouthwatering kidney bruschetta.
A favorite of Rick Stein, who visited the bar for his BBC series, this is an essential part of a pintxo tour in San Sebastian. From the award-winning canutillo (an irresistible cream cheese and anchovy-filled pastry cone) to the famous Basque burnt cheesecake, the dishes are heavenly.
Where else to eat
While pintxos are a big part of San Sebastian’s gourmet scene, there is also a whole array of outstanding fine dining options in this foodie paradise. In fact, as a city with one of the highest number of Michelin-starred restaurants per capita in the world, it’s a dream destination for those looking for a gourmet experience.
Let’s take a look at some of the top restaurants in San Sebastian.
A renovated farmhouse with spectacular bay views, this impossibly romantic restaurant is one of San Sebastian’s finest. Expect Basque standards infused with mesmerizing style by star chef, Iñaki Arrieta, plus one of the finest wine collections in Europe, overseen by world-class sommelier Martín Flea.
A low-key masterpiece of a restaurant that pairs fine dining flair with friendly service, while old school hip hop plays in the background. They’ve mastered the art of fusion food, squid ink bao bread, spider crab dumplings and shrimp steak tartare just some of the dishes to die for.
Blissful simplicity with a subtle side of luxury, this wonderfully sleek restaurant serves some of the finest seafood in San Sebastian. Everything is focused on freshly caught fish and seasonal produce and the location is perfect – just a short stroll from La Concha bay,
Tucked away in the avant-garde wing of San Sebastian’s Museo San Telmo, this upscale restaurant serves classic Basque dishes with a modern twist. You’ll find incredible pintxos on the menu, some surf and turf sensations and stunningly inventive dishes courtesy of chef Paul Arrillaga.
Pack your bags and get set for San Sebastian
While the average Europe travel guide might point you towards big cities, coastal spots and islands, San Sebastian’s blissful summer sunshine and milder temperatures make it an excellent alternative.
You’ll be swept away by the irresistible cuisine, wonderful beaches and regal architecture of this Basque Country gem. Quite simply, San Sebastian has everything.
Well, if it’s good enough for royalty…
