Europe's oldest city: Stroll through 3,000 years of history when you explore Cadiz, Spain's overlooked southern city
- Peregryn travel writers
- Dec 17, 2024
- 7 min read
Updated: Jan 27
Perched along Spain’s southwestern edge you’ll find Cadiz, a city that shines like a rare pearl and blends a dynamic modern culture with touches of the ancient world.
This is a place that served as a key trading hub for hundreds of years. Ships arriving from far flung shores would be welcomed by quick-witted locals, an array of sandstone-coloured walls and the golden dome of the Cathedral of Santa Cruz. Indeed, a stroll through the streets of this ancient city feels like stepping back in time. Even among Spain’s exquisitely preserved old towns, the old world beauty of Cadiz stands out. It’s a city that seems to be as it always was.
While once overlooked by its larger neighbouring cities Seville, Granada and Jerez, Cadiz is enjoying a bit of a moment. Whether you’re taking a Cadiz day trip or intend to stay for longer, this enchanting ancient city is teeming with things to discover.
3,000 years of history
The extensive history of Cadiz imbues it with the feeling of an open air museum. Beginning as Gadir, a Phoenician settlement in the 7th century BC, over the next few hundred years Cadiz changed hands to the Carthiginians and then the Romans after their invasion of the Iberian peninsula in 206 BC. After a period of great prosperity, when Cadiz became one of the most populated cities in Europe, decline set in as the Roman Empire slowly came to an end.
More conquests followed, by the Byzantines in 522 AD and the Visigoths in 620 AD, before the Moors captured the city in the year 711, along with much of the rest of Spain. The Reconquista (or Reconquest) placed Cadiz back in Castilian hands in 1264, leading to the city’s resurgence. Trade with Africa flourished, and the royal shipyards of the Crown of Castile were established in the Bay of Cádiz. The city’s past certainly has a darker side, however, and it’s difficult to overlook the city’s exploitation of slaves in its accumulation of wealth.
Following a combined Anglo-Dutch sacking of the city in 1596, Cadiz was rebuilt, fortified and enjoyed its glory days in the 17th century, when it was ideally positioned for trade and commerce from America. Today, Cadiz has declined in national significance but the multilayered history remains, a story told through its streets, buildings and monuments.
Cadiz guide: what to expect
Originally founded as two separate islands, Cadiz was joined together by the Romans who filled in a small channel that separated the two. The oldest settled island is still viewed as the ‘true’ city – citizens of Cadiz, called Gaditanos, from that part of the city still joke that they are from “Cadiz, Cadiz, Cadiz” — meaning the original city of Cadiz, in the city of Cadiz, in the province of Cadiz.
Despite the wealth that the city once possessed, it is now one of the poorest in Spain. Whatever troubles the city may have, it’s never evident in the warm welcome and joy of its inhabitants.
Food in Cadiz is wonderful and much of the social fabric is built around shared dining experiences. At bars, crowds of people sip sherry, savour tapas, and dinners linger long past sundown. Come the evening, the sounds of flamenco fill the air – in fact, the historic neighbourhood of Santa Maria in Cadiz is one of the three capitals of flamenco, along with Triana in Seville and Santiago in Jerez.
Two of the city’s most notable neighbourhoods are El Populo and La Viña. El Populo is the oldest in the city, lined with stunning baroque houses and historic architecture including the Cathedral of Santa Cruz. La Viña is dotted with winding streets and charming little plazas with an unpretentious, working-class history and a buzzing nightlife.
Top hotels in Cadiz
After being overlooked for so long Cadiz is enjoying a new lease of life, with a flurry of new luxury hotel openings that shows renewed interest in the city. Whether taking a Cadiz day trip before exploring the incredible Costa de la Luz or combining your trip with city breaks in Seville and Jerez, which sit along the same train line, there’s plenty to see and do.
One of the very best hotels in Cadiz is Casa de Canovas – an independent, family-run boutique hotel that was once a stately home, located in the heart of the old town. With only 10 rooms, this exquisitely-designed accommodation promises exclusivity and bespoke care.
Aurea Casa Palacio Sagasta is one of the city’s finest Cadiz boutique hotels having opened its doors in a restored palace. Once the British Consulate and Embassy during the Spanish War of Independence, the hotel is straight from the pages of the history books. With plenty of original details and historical tidbits to be found, the Aurea Casa Palacio Sagasta oozes old school elegance and is a great showcase for the city’s historical allure.
Best places to go in Cadiz
Cadiz wears its history well. There are all kinds of places to stumble upon as you stroll the city streets. Here is a selection of the highlights.
Cadiz Cathedral
Topped with a glorious golden dome, you can see the whole city laid out before you from the top of the cathedral’s Tower of Poniente. The cathedral took so long to build that it incorporates a mix of elegant architectural styles. Nicknamed ‘new cathedral’ by locals in opposition to the ‘old cathedral’ Santa Maria Church, both are worth a visit.
Roman Theatre
Free to enter – along with the associated museum – the oldest Roman theatre in Spain dates from the end of the 1st century BC and was discovered by pure chance in 1980. With a capacity of 20,000 people, any further excavations are blocked by nearby buildings. We recommend the organised tour to get the most from your visit.
Cadiz Museum
In Plaza Mina, Cadiz Museum offers a fascinating chronological journey through the city’s history. Starting with Phoenician and Roman archaeological remains on the ground floor, head to the next floor above for classic Spanish painters of the 16th to the 20th century. Finally, on the second floor, the mysteries and stories behind Cadiz folk customs are revealed.
Central Market
Found in Plaza Libertad, the central market is smaller than many others in Andalusia but still offers a colourful variety of local produce, culinary specialities, household goods and fresh food stalls amid its bustling space. A visit to this market is one of the best things to do in Cadiz if you’re looking to escape the sun, enjoy delicious tapas and a refreshing drink while watching the world go by.
Santa Catalina Castle
Once a crucial part of Cadiz’s defence infrastructure, Santa Catalina Castle was built after British and Dutch troops plundered the city in 1596. The star-shaped fortress has fascinating defensive bastions to explore, a chapel dedicated to Santa Catalina and striking city views from the ramparts.
San Sebastian Castle
The winding Paseo Fernando Quinones takes you across the bay waters to San Sebastian Castle, perched on a small island. The path is the castle’s only physical connection to Cadiz. Across legend and history, the site has seen the Temple of Cronos, a hermitage for sailors, a watchtower and finally a fortress with spectacular seafront views.
La Caleta beach
Discover authentic charm in the little fishing boats moored at La Caleta, nestled as it is between Cadiz’s castles and in the historic centre. It’s a great place to cool off, although space on the golden sands can be competitive in the summer. Make sure to enjoy a leisurely break at one of the nearby restaurants or bars, perhaps with tapas or raciónes.
Plaza San Juan de Dios
Built in the 16th century and close to Cadiz port, this beautiful square is adorned with palm trees, water jets and fountains and lined with chic cafes. As the central location of the town hall and Church of San Juan de Dios, the plaza was for a long time considered the heart of the city.
Alameda Apodaca Park
The magic of this park is found at sunset, although its fresh and vibrant gardens are a welcome break from the hustle and bustle at any time of the day. Wander past lush trees, elegant sculptures, ornate fountains, wrought iron lamp posts and the park’s renowned checkerboard tiles.
Best restaurants in Cadiz
Cadiz has a strong culinary scene, with tapas culture particularly popular. You’ll find mouthwatering seafood and shellfish delicacies in Cadiz, including various types of pescaito frito (fried fish), tortilla de camaron (a thin fried tortilla with tiny prawns) and some of the world's best tuna. This is because every spring, the first tuna fish approach the coast on their way to the Mediterranean to lay eggs. For centuries, the traditional ‘almadraba’ tuna traps have been deployed to catch them from Cadiz, a skill preserved to this day by local fishermen.
You can savour these delicious dishes and plenty more at a range of restaurants and bars across the city. Here are some of the highlights:
This traditional and beloved restaurant in Cadiz offers a succulent variety of fried fish dishes, jamón and salads, all paired with excellent local wines. With generous portions, local specialities and family-run charm, the bar keeps a refreshingly old-school vibe.
Characterised by a deep love and expertise of wine, you can enjoy guided tastings at great-value prices. Place yourself in the hands of the knowledgeable team and follow their lead. If you’re searching for the right tipple, paired with a delicious small plate, look no further.
A stone’s throw from La Caleta beach, Cadiz’s El Faro restaurant is furnished in the traditional style with intricate ceramic tiles, polished wooden tables and golden lighting. With attentive service and a fantastic menu selection, this could be the perfect place to try that Cadiz speciality, red tuna.
Eat heartily without breaking the bank at this ambient bar, offering a variety of local specialities and some of the best tapas in Cadiz, whether you want a light bite like cold cuts and fresh cheese or a generous plate. This emblematic locale is typical of the city, and it’s easy to see why the locals love it.
A fine dining culinary experience, Restaurante Codigo de Barra pays tribute to the history of Cadiz with creative tasting menus and subtle local wines. Receiving a well-deserved Michelin star recently, the restaurant is certainly one of the best restaurants in Cadiz – a great blend of modern innovation and local tradition.
From sampling the city’s exquisite cuisine to simply strolling its streets and soaking up the history, there are so many things to do in Cadiz. It’s a place whose past is on display everywhere you look, yet Cadiz lives in the moment, with the joy and passion of its residents infusing the city with a charm of its own. While Cadiz may well have become something of a hidden gem over the years, it’s making a name for itself as a truly alluring travel destination – an essential stop on any Andalusia itinerary.
