A weekend break at Gran Hotel Mas d'en Bruno, gateway to the finest wines of Priorat
- Peregryn travel writers
- Dec 17, 2024
- 5 min read
Updated: Jan 27
The Priorat wine region shares with Rioja the distinction of being one of the only two DOQ (Denominació d'Origen Qualificada) wine regions in Spain, the highest possible category under Spanish wine law. And with rugged mountains and rolling hills, tiny villages dotted among the breathtaking countryside, and endless skies of ever-changing cloudscapes it is also a region of great natural beauty.
Tracing the wine history of this region is a compelling and exquisite journey, easily accessible from Barcelona and marked with historic wineries along the route.
A History of Priorat
One of the oldest Spanish wine districts, the Priorat has been producing wine for almost one thousand years. Yet its wineries suffered disaster at the end of the 19th century, when the phylloxera insect infestation devastated the vineyards, and left economic catastrophe in its wake. Mass emigration of the population followed, as impoverished people sought opportunities elsewhere, and it seemed that the Priorat had become a footnote in wine history.
In the 1980s, history was altered by a group of five inspirational wine makers who rediscovered the Priorat wine region, planted new vineyards and transformed the landscape back into a vibrant and award-winning Spanish wine district.
A new hotel for the new wineries
In May 2023, new boutique residence Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno opened its doors to guests. Set in an historic estate in the heart of the Priorat wine region, Mas d’en Bruno is surrounded by towering mountains with picturesque antique villages set precariously on their sides and vineyards climbing up the slopes in every direction. The 18th-century manor house with its thick stone walls has been beautifully renovated with original wooden doors, beamed ceilings, earthy tones and circular design all nodding to the region’s culture and history.
The hotel restaurant is helmed by Michelin-trained Josep Queralt who combines modern techniques with regional specialities. And of course the sommelier is at hand to walk you through the extensive offering of regional wines served with the Vinum tasting menu and in the vaulted wine bar on site.
At last, the Priorat has a luxury five-star hotel to match the quality of its vintage wines. So much so that Travel & Leisure World has already named Mas d’en Bruno Europe’s best resort and the sixth best hotel in the world.
Visiting vineyards
As beautiful as the hotel is, you will also want to get out to pay a visit to some of the amazing Priorat wineries near Barcelona. Some have organised tours; some are by appointment only and will need to be booked ahead of time. All have incredible wines imbued with the unique terroir of the region, marked by its rocky slate soil.
A spectacular sight of vineyard terraces awaits you, mixing traditional techniques with technological wine making strategies, along with their showcase winery, nicknamed the “jewel” of the Priorat wine region.
Beautifully set in rolling vineyards against a mountain backdrop, Clos de l’Obac was founded by one of the five and is still run by the same family today, achieving recognition by the World Wine Guide as one of the 150 best wines in the world.
Named after the historic nearby monastery, Scala Dei Garnacha wines have reached the highest levels of international prestige. Sample their wines in the historic stonewalled tasting rooms among giant barrels.
A vineyard since Roman times, the modern Buil & Giné has been passed through six generations of passionate winegrowers and farmers, dedicated to their region.
This relatively new winery in the village of Porrera is focused on preserving the authenticity of the terroir in every bottle. Visit the steep slopes in a 4x4, then return to the tasting room to sample their red wines.
A small and charming winery run by passionate owner Marc Ripoll and producing only 15,000 bottles a year. Cal Batllet stands out in the region for producing a white wine with the unique Escanyavella grape.
Located in Porrera, one of the most picturesque villages of the region, Cal Pla has historic aging facilities set in hand-painted arched rooms, with characteristic elegant and full-bodied red wines.
Founded in 1999, the winery has just opened a new visitors’ centre to relaunch wine tourism in their gorgeous vineyards on the distinctive steep slopes of the Priorat.
Other places to explore
Beyond wine, the Priorat also has a number of other historic and charming attractions, making it one of the best places to visit close to Barcelona.
Falset is the capital of the region, a cosy town with Roman ruins, and ancient castle ruins and city walls. It’s also home to the yearly wine festival of the Priorat every May, at which 70,000 locals, enthusiasts and wine professionals gather to celebrate the wineries of the Priorat. One of the region’s “wine cathedrals” stands in the town; a modernist art nouveau wine cellar with towering high ceilings and parabolic arches.
Follow mountainous hiking trails through the gorges and rocky outcrops of the Serra de Montsant National Park, marvelling at the wide open skies and views. Winding roads along the mountains connect small charming villages to one of the many pools and streams or the Els Guiamets and Siurana Reservoirs where you can swim or kayak. Sirurana village itself is perched on a clifftop, overlooking the reservoir with some of the most spectacular views in the region.
Archaeology enthusiasts will enjoy the ancient cave paintings of Capçanes and the prehistoric settlements of Calvari and Puig Roig and most recent history awaits you at the monastery of Escaladei or on a guided tour through the 19th century mines of Bellmunt and its attached museum. Multiple other museums are dedicated to the art and food culture of the region, including the Marçaginé-Lula Pérez Sculpture museum, and the Molí de l’Olí olive oil museum.
Where to eat
As a landlocked region, the Priorat is dedicated to regional, Catalan continental cuisine, with natural and foraged ingredients from the hills and mountains, valleys and gorges. A fierce pride in local produce meets classically trained local chefs who are keen to showcase the unique flavor of their heritage.
The “four windmills” restaurant boasts the only Michelin star of the region. The dining room has a beautiful rustic charm, with wrought iron and rough-hewn wooden tables reflecting the true essence of the Priorat.
Perched on a hill above the Buil & Giné winery, Amics features breathtaking 360 degree views across the Priorat. An innovative menu uses fresh products from the local market.
Honoured with a Bib Gourmand, Brots is a small and innovative restaurant with its own signature style. Exceptionally good value for money; be sure to book ahead to guarantee one of the very limited number of seats.
Located next to the wine and oil cooperative, Brichs offers classic Catalan cuisine of the Priorat, with its dining room overlooking the modernist building and a wine pairing menu to showcase the classics of the region.
A winery restaurant, with the wines coming from their own vineyard and many of the vegetables from their garden, Les Figueres offers classic Catalan dishes at incredibly good value for money.
A casual atmosphere with stunning views in a boutique restaurant attached to one of the local wineries. Íntim features local food and dishes that celebrate the natural economy of the region.
