Pre-Incan ruins, perfect beaches and desert landscapes: Explore the tourist-free north of Peru

They call it Peru’s Golden Triangle, the well-trodden route that takes visitors from the foodie capital, Lima, to the Inca heartland of the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu, the 15th-century site tucked within the folds of tropical mountain forest. 

But it takes an intrepid traveller to turn north and venture towards desert, jungle and Peru’s long Pacific coastline.

It’s well worth taking the road less travelled. Here, in the north of Peru, you’ll find archaeological sites from mysterious civilisations that thrived long before the Inca, preserved amid the golden sands of Peruvian deserts. 

There are secluded villages in the Andes mountains, where you could be the only foreigner to pass through for years, and tropical beaches where white sands are lapped by waters of a dazzling turquoise hue. 

What will you find in Northern Peru?

Like many South American countries, Peru is vast. Which means you’ll want to plan your trip carefully. Internal flights mainly spoke out from Lima, so once you’ve reached Northern Peru, you’ll then be reliant on long-distance bus services to connect you to different areas - they are both safe and surprisingly comfortable. Here are a few of the places you might consider exploring… 

The country’s coastal region is desert-like, unfurling along the west coast right up to Ecuador. The coast is mostly vast expanses of sand washed by rolling Pacific waves, but right up in the far north, it becomes more tropical. 

Along the coastline, you’ll find cities such as Trujillo, Chiclayo and Piura, they’re great bases for discovering ruins that offer glimpses of the ancient cultures that shaped Peru before the Inca Empire even existed.

Head east, inland from the coast, and you’ll climb into the peaks of the Andes, where you'll find fabulous trekking routes. Then beyond the Andes, towards the north-east corner of the country, you’ll reach the lush jungles of the Amazon. 

If you want to plan a tailor-made trip with an expert in the region, we’d recommend based on personal experience: Audley Travel, Journey Latin America, and Jacada Travel. 

They can help you plan an itinerary with private transport options that will whisk you from place to place. But if you’re planning to travel independently, it’s not difficult. Buses can be booked and paid for online, they leave on time and are quite comfortable with reclining seats - you’ll even be given a snack box for the journey. 

Unmissable ruins

Trujillo

A direct flight from Lima, Trujillo is a bustling city set around a pretty central square. It’s best known, however, as the gateway to nearby ancient sites, including Huaca de la Luna, Huaca del Sol and the Chan Chan ruins.

The huacas are some of the most interesting ruins of Peru - large adobe brick structures built by the Moche people of northern Peru between 100-800 AD - more than a thousand years before the Inca Empire was born. 

These sacred structures are remains of the ancient Moche capital city, Cerro Blancowere, and are adorned by stunning multicoloured friezes that typify the incredible artistry of this ancient culture. You can study them up close at Huaca de la Luna. However, visits to neighbouring Huaca del Sol are currently restricted as it is still being excavated. 

After the Moche civilisation, but just before the Inca, Chan Chan is the largest city in pre-Columbian America, and the largest adobe city in the world. 

This sprawling archeological wonder was built by the Chimu people, who thrived between the 12th and 15th centuries. It is divided into nine distinct citadels, with a design that showcases a masterful understanding of town planning, rarely demonstrated in the ancient world. 

To walk among its immense adobe walls is to marvel at carvings and unique animal designs by this advanced culture. By its very nature, the mud city is slowly being eroded, giving the impression of melting back into the earth. But you’ll still wander among towering walls and see incredibly intricate carvings. 

The beauty of these ruins is that they receive very few visitors compared to their southern cousins in the Sacred Valley, so you’ll likely have them almost to yourself.   

An hour north of Trujillo you'll find another impressive site. El Brujo is a recently discovered archaeological complex with evidence of occupation as far back as 12,000 BC, together with stunning artefacts from the Moche culture, which came later. 

Here you’ll find Huaca Cao, an 88-foot-tall adobe pyramid famous for housing the tomb of Lady of Cao, a tattooed Peruvian mummy from the Moche culture, now considered to have been a rare powerful woman in Ancient Peru.

Where to stay 

An elegantly restored colonial house in the centre of Trujillo, Hotel Costa Del Sol Trujillo Centro is located right on the main plaza, where you'll find the city’s best restaurants just a short stroll away. The hotel has a spacious lobby, an interior courtyard with a pool for cooling down on hot afternoons, an authentic Peruvian restaurant and a classy cocktail bar, where you'll be served a complimentary pisco sour on arrival.

For those looking for some respite from the hubbub of the city, its sister hotel, Costa del Sol Wyndham Trujillo Golf, is located slightly further outside the city. At this charming Peruvian paradise you’ll find llamas in the gardens and a glorious pool and sun terrace, while you can sample international and Peruvian fare at the hotel’s restaurant Paprika

Cajamarca and Chachapoyas

From Trujillo, you can take a bus into the Andes mountains and the picturesque town of Cajamarca, a journey of around six hours. Here you’ll find beautiful Baroque colonial architecture, intriguing catacombs and an excellent art museum - it’s a bit like Cusco in miniature.

It was the gold found here that fascinated the Spanish conquistadors, and led to Francisco Pizarro killing the Inca Emperor Atahualpa. The town is fascinating in its own right and is also a great place to break your journey on the way to Peru’s best-kept secret… Chachapoyas.

It’s a long drive from Cajamarca, some eight and a half hours, but journeying to Chachapoyas is more than worth the effort. Taking its name from the pre-Inca culture that lived in the region, this town is nestled in the rolling Andean foothills, the perfect gateway to some of the country’s most incredible historical sites. 

To the south, you’ll discover Kuélap, a 6th-century walled city in the clouds, surrounded by majestic mountains. It’s been dubbed the Machu Picchu of the north - built by the Chachapoyas civilization and once populated by as many as 3,000 people. In fact, Kuélap was considered to be the strongest of all Peruvian fortress cities. Once only reachable on an unforgettable, but hours-long drive, today a cable car whisks you up from the town of Nuevo Tingo (an hour from Chachapoyas) in just 20 minutes. 

It’s not just ancient cultures you’ll discover in this Amazonas region. To the north of Chachapoyas is the two-tiered Gocta Waterfall, one of the largest in the world, set amid misty jungle-clad mountains sheltering toucans and monkeys.

Where to stay 

Whether you’re looking for a hotel in the centre or a more rural escape, you’ll find it in Cajamarca. On the outskirts of town, Hotel Tartar is a gorgeous colonial building in mustard yellow set around a central courtyard and with a fireplace for those cool mountain evenings. 

Simple, central and set around a lovely covered courtyard, Hotel Restaurante Dordean Casa Boutique is a good base in Cachapoyas. Come for the cute rooms, stay for the fabulous food.  

Chiclayo

If you are shorter on time, you can simply take a bus from Trujillo further north up the coast to Chiclayo, a journey that will take a little over four hours. This city is a gateway to some incredible archaeological sites. To the north of Chiclayo, at Túcume, you’ll discover ancient huacas, adobe pyramids made from mud bricks, created by the Sicán people about 1,000 years ago. 

Further to the east you’ll find the town of Lambayeque, home to one of South America’s best museums. At the Museum of the Royal Tombs of Sipán you’ll find the sacred objects discovered when the royal tomb of a Moche nobleman, Lord of Sipán, was excavated. The collection includes gold coins, silver beads and intricate ornamental headdresses. 

The tomb was discovered in the 1980s by Peruvian archaeologist Walter Alva, and the museum tells the story of the original dig, showcasing the stunning collection of relics that were discovered.  

Where to stay

There are plenty of modern hotels in the centre of Chiclayo, but they’re somewhat lacking in charm. If you can, consider venturing beyond the city itself and stay in Chaparri Ecolodge, about an hour-and-a-half away. Set in a nature reserve, here you’ll be surrounded by lush scenery, perfect for hiking, birdwatching and perhaps even glimpsing the Andean spectacled bear (yes, that’s Paddington Bear). 

Beautiful beaches

From Trujillo to the Ecuadorian border, Peru’s coast is sprinkled with sublime beach towns. From Máncora beach to Tumbes, these sun-splashed spots have become popular holiday destinations for Peruvians and more adventurous travellers. 

Renowned for excellent waves, these beaches of Peru have also proved popular with surfers, drawing international travellers from far and wide, prompting a flurry of boutique hotels, beachside restaurants and bars, and plenty of surf schools. 

Máncora is among the most popular. While the town itself is small and scruffy, to the south you’ll find some fabulous boutique hotels dotted along the sandy stretch. 

One of the most exclusive beaches, Las Pocitas, has a distinctive Tulum feel to it – think thatched hotels overlooking the coast and a bohemian flair. One of the best places to stay is Arennas, a glorious beachfront retreat with elegant natural wood stylings surrounded by landscaped gardens and swaying palms. 

The hotel’s infinity pool is perfect for cooling off, while rooms offer an ideal sanctuary in the form of independent bungalows with private gardens or sea views. You'll see the odd lazy iguana wandering by as you savour the moment, as well as native pelicans swooping out at sea.

Exploring this region is easy, with a full fleet of mototaxis on call; so even though you’re further out of town, it’s easy to travel further afield and dine at other hotels for the equivalent of a couple of euros.

In Máncora, many tourist companies offer the chance to swim with turtles “in the wild”. However, it’s a harmful practice that has lured turtles away from their natural diet of algae and seaweed near the seabed. Instead, opt for the far more ethical whale watching tours.

Head further north to the region of Tumbes and its town of the same name - the last town before you reach Ecuador. Again, the town itself doesn’t have much to offer, but in this colourful region, you’ll find mangroves, tropical forests and blissful beaches with white sands and crystal clear waters – locals call it the Caribbean of Peru. 

This stretch of coastline is peppered with a few towns featuring beachfront hotels, notably Bocapán and Zorritos, although the area is still somewhat underdeveloped in terms of the accommodation on offer - some local brands such as Casa Andina Select Zorritos Tumbes offer pools, lush gardens and a beachfront location. And the minimal development means you’ll have the beaches all to yourself. 

The forgotten north

A trip to less-travelled north Peru offers a world of possibilities for those with a curious spirit. From mesmerising archaeological sites to sumptuous beaches, incredible trekking routes to natural marvels, this is a land that rewards off-the-beaten-track adventure.

Sarah Gordon is a travel writer and brand storyteller. She travels the world to write for leading publications and also works with hotels and travel brands to tell their story through effective branding and communication strategies.