A Walk Through the Gritty, Charming City of Naples
- Peregryn travel writers
- Jun 24
- 13 min read
Updated: Jun 25
As the famous Italian saying goes: “See Naples and die.” It sounds morbid on the face of it, but in fact, the expression is referencing the importance of visiting the city to experience its beautiful and captivating ambiance, at least once in your lifetime.
Here are some of the top things to do in Naples, as you uncover the captivating essence of the city, where historical significance intertwines with raw, authentic charm. Its UNESCO-protected Greco-Roman streets showcase the grandeur of imperial architecture and art, while the underground of the city is an exploration all of its own.
Forget the polished façade of other Italian destinations, Naples offers a genuine glimpse into Italian life. Its vibrant neighborhoods pulse with street activity, culinary delights, and urban art, a captivating labyrinth leading to serene hilltops and picturesque harbor views. Immerse yourself in the unparalleled passion and energy of the Neapolitan spirit, as you prepare to experience the city from a fresh perspective.
Why We Love the City
Until recent decades, Naples had a reputation as a dirty city with a high crime rate. That might have been true once, but not anymore, and not for a long time. The city has cleaned itself up in every way and impressively has done so without losing any of the gritty charm that makes it so authentic. With washing lines strung over the narrow alleys, shouted conversations from window to window and the ever-present scooters roaring down the narrow streets, this may not be the serene Italy of la dolce vita, but it is certainly real Italian life.
With history baked into its foundations, you can trace the path from ancient Greco-Roman remains through the Gothic 13th-century Duomo via the crumbling Baroque churches to the liveliness of modern Neapolitan life in the Centro Storico.
History doesn’t stop with the buildings and architecture. As the birthplace of pizza, Naples encourages you to walk a delicious route, following this iconic dish through its meandering streets and alleyways. The signs of the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana mark the restaurants and pizzerias where you can enjoy an authentic culinary experience by eating pizza in its hometown.
The Best Neighborhoods in Naples
Quartieri Spagnoli
Probably the best area to stay in Naples if you want to get a real feel for local life and experience the energy of the city and the Neapolitan character. Wander the vibrant, narrow streets of the Spanish Quarter, soaking up the history of Naples, as Neapolitans go about their daily lives.
Chiaia
This elegant waterfront neighborhood is an affluent neighborhood known for its upscale boutiques, designer shops, and sophisticated cafes. Chiaia offers beautiful views of the Bay of Naples and the Castel dell'Ovo and is the perfect spot for a leisurely stroll.
Vomero
A hilltop neighborhood offering panoramic views of the city, the Bay of Naples, and Mount Vesuvius, Vomero is known for its more residential and upscale atmosphere compared to the historic center. Elegant villas, lush green spaces and chic boutiques give this neighborhood an air of exclusivity.
Centro Storico
The beating heart of the city, the Centro Storico is a labyrinth of ancient alleys, historic churches, artisan workshops and lively squares. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’s infused with centuries of history and culture, famous for its artisanal nativity scenes, lively atmosphere and culinary traditions.
Naples Port
A vital gateway to the city and the surrounding islands, the port area also offers glimpses into Naples' working-class culture and maritime traditions, with seafood restaurants serving the freshest of freshly-caught fish.
Posillipo
An upscale residential area perched on a hill offering stunning panoramic views of the Bay of Naples, Mount Vesuvius, and the surrounding coastline, Posillipo is known for its elegant villas, upscale restaurants, and peaceful atmosphere.
Santa Lucia
A dazzling waterfront neighborhood renowned for its charming ambiance and sweeping views of the Bay of Naples, Santa Lucia is located near the emblematic Castel dell'Ovo. An excellent area to immerse yourself in authentic Neapolitan life.
What to See in Naples
With so much history in the city, there’s no shortage of museums, churches, and ancient sites to visit.
Delve into Naples' Archaeological Museum, a treasure trove brimming with significant Roman artifacts and the astonishing discoveries unearthed from Pompeii and Herculaneum.
This spacious piazza in the west of Naples is home to the unique 16th-century church of Gesù Nuovo, where absurdly opulent interiors are concealed behind a stark façade, almost modernist in appearance.
This regal 18th-century Bourbon palace in a vibrant park with sweeping views across the bay contains some of Europe's most exclusive art collections within its historic walls. A haven of art, including works by Caravaggio and Titian.
This 16th-century Royal Palace is a monument to the Spanish dynasty in the city. The lavish royal apartments contain an eclectic collection of tapestries, sculptures, and paintings as well as the Teratrino di Corte.
Step into Europe’s oldest, most majestic opera house. Witness world-class performances or simply gaze at the opulent interiors and breathtaking ceiling fresco for an unforgettable spectacle.
Gazing over a vibrant marina filled with sailing boats, a formidable castle emerges from the sea on its own small island, connected to the mainland by a footbridge.
This tiny chapel, crafted by alchemist John Francesco di Sangro, is home to the famous marble sculpture of Christ depicted in his final earthly moments with a veil over his face.
San Lorenzo church
The San Lorenzo Maggiore church in Naples is built on top of the Macellum of Neapolis, a Roman market building, offering visitors a glimpse into the city's ancient past.
Best Things to Do, Naples: Embrace Slow Travel
Although the Neapolitan dialect is rapid-fire, you’ll get the most out of the city by slowing it right down and immersing yourself in the culture and surroundings. These are some of the most mesmerizing things to do in Naples, and most of them are best experienced on foot at a relaxed pace.
Wander through the historic center
Lose yourself in the labyrinth of Naples' Centro Storico, where narrow vicoli buzz with authentic Neapolitan life around every ancient corner.
Visit local markets
Strike a bargain in one of Naples' vibrant local markets, like the bustling Pignasecca, for a true taste of Neapolitan life and authentic flavors.
Explore the Quartieri Spagnoli
Wander the vibrant, narrow streets of the Spanish Quarter, a maze of history, laundry lines, and vibrant local life full of character.
Take a stroll along the Lungomare Caracciolo
Enjoy a picturesque walk along the waterfront promenade, taking in stunning views of the Bay of Naples, Mount Vesuvius, and the Castel dell'Ovo.
Discover the art stations of the Naples Metro
Stunning contemporary installations transform subway stations into captivating cultural spaces, making commuting an artistic experience.
Attend a local festival or event
Experiencing a lively local festival or event for a truly Neapolitan vibe. From religious processions to food fairs, they’re filled with tradition and community spirit.
Take a cooking class
Learn the secrets of authentic Neapolitan cuisine in a hands-on cooking class, mastering classic dishes like pizza and pasta using fresh, local ingredients.
Enjoy a coffee at a traditional bar
Experience a quintessential Neapolitan ritual by sipping a strong espresso "al banco” – meaning quickly, at the counter of a traditional bar – soaking up the local atmosphere.
Take a day trip to Procida or Ischia
Escape the city bustle with a short ferry ride to one of the charming nearby islands, with colorful harbors, thermal springs, and stunning landscapes.
Places to Stay in Naples
A peaceful haven in the bustling Centro Storico, probably the best area to stay in Naples for tourists. With charming and friendly staff, a beautiful sun terrace, and a calm and relaxing atmosphere.
In a beautifully restored 17th-century palazzo, Albergo Palazzo Decumani has authentic historic charm that combines modernity with tradition and a heartfelt welcome.
Offering elegant rooms in a historic building in the center of the city, this tiny boutique B&B is a charming location with a personal touch and a beautiful hidden garden.
In a recently renovated historic building, these spacious luxury rooms are near the seafront and the castle. Also includes a wellness spa set in a lush garden.
Set in an 18th-century building with a large and beautiful rooftop terrace, the rooms and suites are charmingly and individually decorated in a classic Neapolitan style.
A luxurious resort option slightly outside the center, known for its excellent amenities. Including spa facilities and a year-round pool, as well as family-friendly dining.
Eating Out in Naples: Authentic Dining
There is no shortage of excellent restaurants in Naples, some more formal and others charming and chaotic tavernas, sometimes run by a single family for many generations. Here’s our pick of the best.
With a Michelin mention, Palazzo Petrucci offers a choice of minimalist tasting menus with a dining room looking out onto the beach. Expect seafood to feature heavily.
Michelin-starred Veritas is a haven to haute cuisine, wine and conviviality, a window to the city shaped by the vision of patron Stefano Giancotti, showcasing authenticity and independence.
A city institution, running for over 70 years, the restaurant is an ode to traditional Neapolitan cooking, refined and adapted by the new generation with the flavor of history and tradition.
One of the most renowned tavernas in the city, this family-run venture is full of heart and authentic flavor, a mixture of art, music, tradition and, of course, superb simple food.
Located in the port area, the taverna focuses on seafood and local ingredients, prepared in typical Neapolitan style. Self-appointed guardians of local gastronomic history.
A trattoria doing things a little differently, with a cozy, intimate atmosphere and innovative food inspired by local classics. Full vegetarian menus available, which can be a rarity in Naples.
A cute little trattoria tucked away in the heart of Posillipo, La Santarella offers an easy-going, intimate vibe with sweeping views of the sea and Mount Vesuvias, with authentic Neapolitan dishes.
Pizzerias
When considering what to eat in Naples, pizza absolutely has to be on the list. As the birthplace of the doughy delight, an authentic Neapolitan pizza is a bucket list experience. Eat it at dinner (not lunch), allowing the pizza ovens sufficient time to heat up to blister that pizza base. In Naples, the dough isn’t just the vehicle for the toppings, it’s the most important part…
They only offer two types of pizza, but it’s so good that they’ve got a Michelin mention. Margarita or Marinara, the choice is yours. Expect to queue, but it’s worth it.
Founded in the 1930s, the pizzeria is now run by the fourth generation of the Di Matteo family, and has hosted celebrities and luminaries including Bill Clinton in the 1990s.
Another historic location dating back over 120 years. Owner Antonio Starita delivers simple and genuine flavors in a warm, hospitable environment that makes you feel right at home.
Chef Gino is continually seeking to improve and refine Neapolitan pizza, taking it through many iterations to reach this pinnacle of dining delight. Recognized by the Michelin Guide.
Exposed brickwork and edgy artwork make this a trendy place to hang out, but there’s no mistaking the quality of the pizza, refined over several generations from the original 1951 fried pizza street stand.
What to Eat in Naples: Street Food
Although the restaurants are amazing, one of the foodie top things to do in Naples is to sample some authentic Neapolitan street food. Here are some dishes not to miss when you’re eating alfresco on the streets.
Pizza a portafoglio
A small pizza, folded over twice, designed for eating on the go. The name means “wallet pizza” referencing how easy it is to transport.
Pizza frita
Name any delicious food you can think of, and you can bet a Neapolitan somewhere has tried deep-frying it. Fried pizza sure isn’t a healthy food, but it’s very, very good.
Cuoppo
More crisp treats await with a cuoppo, a paper cone that contains a variety of deep-fried delights. Small fish, mozzarella cheese, zucchini flowers — all are battered and fried for a pick-and-mix selection.
Frittura di paranza
A special type of cuoppo featuring seafood alone. A typical selection will include tiny fish, anchovies, baby squid and shrimp, simply served with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.
Pagnotielli
A type of savory pie or a small sandwich, this Neapolitan delicacy is usually made with pizza dough for pastry enclosing cold cuts, hard-boiled eggs and cheese.
Taralli
Crunchy baked bread rings with a selection of spices, usually including fennel seeds. You often see them served with aperitivos as well as from street food stands.
Best Wine Bars in Naples
Immerse yourself in the flavors of Naples and experience the unique atmosphere of the city’s wine bars. Here are some of the very best:
Set in the heart of the Chiaia district, Enoteca Belledonne is a cozy wine bar that offers the perfect atmosphere for savoring a glass or two alongside some light appetizers. Knowledgeable staff are always ready to offer recommendations from independent producers and regional specialties.
As the name suggests, L'Antiquario offers a vintage-inspired experience. The soft lighting, red velvet sofas and soft jazz in the background create an intimate and almost magical ambiance. Sip fine Italian wines and maybe a cocktail or two – the ‘Red Hook’ cocktail comes highly recommended.
Attimi DiVini
Translating to "Moments of Wine," Attimi DiVini likely aims to create a serene environment to truly savor every sip. A large selection of local wines, a delicious choice of charcuterie platters and a friendly vibe make this well worth a visit. And with outdoor seating, you can watch local life unfold in the charming Santa Lucia neighborhood.
Wind your way down a small, historic street in Naples’ Chiaia district and you’ll find this beautiful little wine bar, rustic and full of Neapolitan charm. At Wine Bausen, you’ll receive a warm welcome, an extensive wine menu – try local reds from the Campania Region – and leave with a sense of calm that comes from savoring the flavors of this wonderful city.
High ceilings, natural wood beams and brick walls lined with back-lit bottles give this wine bar a rustic vibe. Yet, it feels contemporary, as young Neapolitan professionals gather to sip locally produced natural wines. The aperitivos are exceptional, notably the bruschetta with anchovies and butter.
A Day Trip to Pompeii
Easily accessible from Naples as a day trip, Pompeii offers a profound journey into the past. This remarkably preserved Roman city, frozen in time by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD, provides an unparalleled glimpse into ancient daily life. Exploring its excavated streets and buildings reveals the dramatic remnants of a civilization suddenly halted.
There are key Pompeiian sites such as the Forum, the once-bustling heart of Roman life, and the impressive Amphitheater, which hosted gladiatorial contests. It’s also worth taking in the House of the Faun, renowned for its intricate mosaic, and the Villa of the Mysteries, famous for well-preserved frescoes. The poignant plaster casts of the eruption's victims serve as powerful reminders of the tragedy.
The Circumvesuviana train will take you to Pompeii for the price of just €3.50 for a return ticket. Another option is the Campania Express train, but this costs 15 euros each way and isn’t much quicker, so it's worth going for the more affordable one. The train guards will check your tickets at the station, ensuring you don't accidentally get on the wrong train.
For a more guided experience, you can consider an organized tour or a private driver/guide. Pompei can be crowded in peak season and there’s not a lot of shade, so consider taking your trip outside of the hottest period, or arriving early in the day to beat the crowds and the heat. Whether opting for a guided tour or self-exploration, it’s recommended to buy tickets in advance, take plenty of water, and make sure you allocate sufficient time to explore.
A Day Trip to Herculaneum
Like nearby Pompeii, Herculaneum was buried beneath ash and mud following the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD. Incredibly, Herculaneum is even more preserved than its nearby neighbor, with the interiors of many homes still intact, including wood and marble finishings, jewelry and even food remains. Herculaneum offers an astonishing insight into the lives of an ancient population from over 2,000 years ago.
The remains of this ancient city were first discovered by accident during a well-digging operation in 1707. Several excavations took place over the years, but it wasn’t until the 20th century that the true extent of the preserved remains became clear, following a more systematic excavation.
Herculaneum sites include the men’s baths, the central hall with its magnificent frescoes and the macabre port warehouses, where the skeletal remains of some 300 residents remain.
As with Pompeii, you can get to Herculaneum via a €3.50 return ticket on the Circumvesuviana train. We recommend you set aside at least half a day to wander through the well-preserved villas and public spaces of this fascinating archaeological site.
A Day Trip from Naples to Nearby Destinations
Naples' central location in the Tyrrhenian Sea makes it an ideal gateway to a collection of stunning islands and picturesque coastal towns, each one is easily accessible by ferry.
Sorrento
Perched on dramatic cliffs overlooking the Bay of Naples, the city of Sorrento is just a 45-minute ferry ride away from Napoli, offering breathtaking views, charming lanes lined with artisan shops, and lemon trees. Take a wander through its historic center, take a tour of a local lemon farm and enjoy a limoncello tasting.
Capri
Known for its natural beauty, upscale shopping, and the iconic sea cave, the Blue Grotto, Capri is a glamorous island escape, just over an hour from Napoli. Stroll through Capri town, take a chairlift to Anacapri for stunning views, or soak up the sun on its silken beaches.
Procida
With a ferry ride of just under an hour, you’ll arrive at the smallest and arguably most authentic island in the Bay of Naples. Explore Procida’s kaleidoscopic houses jumbled around the harbor, ramble along its quiet streets and savor fresh-catch seafood.
Ischi
Beloved by locals for its thermal springs, lush gardens, and Aragonese Castle, Ischia offers a more serene and natural island experience, just a 90-minute ferry ride away. Indulge in a spa treatment, explore the history of the island and take a steady hike through its volcanic landscape.
Amalfi
Take a two-hour boat from Naples and you’ll arrive at the heartland of the Amalfi Coast. Amalfi is a historic maritime town with stunning architecture perched on the edge of a deep ravine between dramatic cliffs and the sea. Visit the historic church, wander its narrow streets, and soak up the stunning coastal scenery.
Positano
Renowned for its picture-perfect, colorful houses perched on the hillside that overlooks the sea, Positano one of the the Amalfi Coast’s most idyllic islands. The ferry takes around two to three hours, and you often need to change in Sorrento, but with its blissful beaches, chic boutiques and excellent restaurants, a trip to Positano is certainly worth the effort.
Pack Your Bags
Naples may not be the gleaming and polished Italy of the more touristy cities in the north, but it captivates with its unique blend of grit and charm. Its rich history, from its Greco-Roman roots to the vibrant modern-day life, is palpable in its architecture, cuisine, and the energy of its people.
Beyond the historical sites, Naples offers a truly authentic Italian experience, from savoring world-renowned pizza to wandering through bustling local markets. With a passionate spirit and an unpretentious atmosphere, it’s a compelling destination for travelers seeking a genuine and unforgettable cultural immersion in a place less explored. Naples is a city that stays with you long after you've left.
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